Author: jean komatsu
Last saved by: GCS

Brick & Fire
1630 F Street, Eureka, CA
http://www.brickandfirebistro.com/
Review date:  October, 2010

This small, noisy, popular bistro offered us a dinner that was inexpensive but also an “almost there” experience. If you like wine, it has an outstanding wine list that is worth exploring. Alas, we don't drink, but unlike Oliveto the food stands on its own quite well.

Brick & Fire gears itself to a younger crowd, and it felt as if the same was true for the kitchen – enthusiastic, creative, but the techniques and skill aren’t quite experienced enough yet to pull off what the vision is trying to achieve. So the stuffed squid was an interesting idea, but the soft filling oozed out with every attempt to cut it into bite-sized pieces, and the squid itself was toughened from overcooking under a ferocious broiler. A firmer filling and a quicker cooking would have made it outstanding, as the Romescu sauce was enlivened with a touch of harissa, a wonderful complement to the squid.

The mushroom cobbler was a great idea and executed well. Richly creamed mushrooms were topped with a savory cheddar biscuit in an inspired combination. I was still full from lunch, so I had just a bowl of their corn chowder. It was very good, and when I crumbled up some of the blue corn-pimento bread into it, both went nicely together.

Carlos was a little negative on the shrimp risotto. The flavors were good in the rice, but the three tiger prawns on top had been broiled too long and were overcooked. They also didn't have espresso, so he settled for a black tea instead. I was tempted into trying one of their housemade truffles, as they offered a black walnut, something I've loved since my childhood. It was great, like a chocolate black walnut ice cream.

Still, the prices were quite reasonable and they are trying hard, so someday we hope they will lower the noise level – it was impossible to hear one another without leaning forward and raising our voices – and bump the execution up a couple of notches.

Two starters, one soup, one entree, half a dessert (the truffle was $3), two beverages, with tip came to $78.